Israel revives ancient grape varieties in Negev vineyards

Oenophiles (wine lovers) are always looking for the newest thing in wines, but an Israeli project is going in the opposite direction—reviving grape varieties with roots stretching back more than 1,000 years.

The project began after archaeologists discovered grape seeds during an excavation at Avdat, the ancient Nabataean and Byzantine city between Beersheva and Mitzpeh Ramon in southern Israel. The seeds were dated to the seventh century CE and sent to Tel Aviv University for genetic analysis.

One was found to be genetically similar to the Syriki variety, a small, dark grape still grown in parts of the eastern Mediterranean. Another was identified with the Ba’ar variety, which produces white grapes.

From ancient seeds to living vines

Lior Schweimer, Southern District heritage director and archaeologist for the Israel Nature and Parks Authority, took cuttings from vines found in the Gaza border region that researchers believed could be connected to the ancient varieties identified at Avdat.

In September 2023, Schweimer planted the cuttings on 1,500-year-old agricultural terraces at Avdat. He also planted Dabouki vines, an ancient local variety already grown by several Israeli wineries.

“Usually, ancient grape seeds are very fragile—they are very small and have a lot of sugar—and in most cases you can’t get DNA from them,” Schweimer told JNS. “But here in Avdat they were covered with a layer of ancient dung that preserved them a bit more.”

He said he was surprised by how well the cuttings have grown in the harsh Negev environment.

“So far, it’s amazing,” he said. “They grow very, very fast and they look like a jungle already. They don’t seem to have a problem with the salty ground.”

Schweimer has provided cuttings to several Negev wineries to produce experimental wines, including winemaker Boaz Dreyer of Dreyer Winery.

This is the first year that the winery is producing wine from a full harvest, with hopes of making about 1,000 bottles of each variety. Dreyer specializes in natural wines using spontaneous fermentation and is producing the new wines using the same approach.

Schweimer said the original plan was to grow and make the wine using ancient techniques described in the Talmud. But there was not enough rainfall for stormwater to irrigate the vines, so the project turned to a decidedly modern Israeli invention: drip irrigation.

A distinctly Israeli wine

Israel has a robust wine industry, with more than 300 wineries producing tens of millions of bottles annually. Much of the industry relies on internationally familiar varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay.

The revived local grapes could offer Israeli winemakers something different: wines rooted in varieties that grew in the region centuries ago and are naturally adapted to its climate.

For Dreyer, that connection to the land is part of their appeal.

“The local boy on the block is like the prodigal son coming home,” he said. “They are making wonderful grapes.”